Camp Fire USA at Irving School

Irving Starflight Archives
from 2001-2005

Meetings
Pond Animals
Electricity
Fossil Hunt
Knots
Owl Pellets
Pine Cars

Camp Fire Grand Prix

This page has information about how we build our cars for the Irving School Camp Fire Grand Prix. The pictures show the cars we built in 2002.

Steps in building a car

Before the first meeting

At the first meeting

Before the second meeting

At the second meeting

Local sources of PineCar materials

Web sites about Pinewood Derby-type cars

Steps in Building a Camp Fire Grand Prix Car

In 2002, we started with the PineCar P370 Basic Car Kit (a block of wood, axles, wheels, and wheel caps). In 2004, we will start with a wedge-shaped block of wood, which requires much less sawing by parents. The kits is paid for by members' dues.

Building a PineCar can be a long and drawn-out process, which would be too difficult for most of our 1st graders. Here's how we simplify the process:

Before the First Meeting:

In 2002, we selected a single, simple design for the cars: a wedge shape with a cockpit, based on a winning car from several years ago.

Our co-leader then used a band saw to cut out the basic shape. He glued the wedge-shaped piece back on to show the original shape of the block.

By starting with the wedge-shaped block, we cut out these steps in 2004.

At the First Meeting: We start the meeting by introducing the kids to the Grand Prix concept and the step-by-step process used to build the cars. Then we complete the following steps:

1. In 2002, we broke off the wedge-shaped block. In 2004, we skip that step.

2. We shape and sand the car body. The kids do this with rasps, sanding blocks, sandpaper scraps -- and some help from the co-leaders and parents.

	First we use rasps to round edges and corners.
	Then we sand off the saw marks with coarse-grained sandpaper (80 grit).
	Then we smooth the wood with finer-grained sandpaper (150 grit).

3. We paint the cars. We use tempera paints and foam brushes.

	Members select a color based on samples that Alec had prepared.
	Then they apply one thick coat of paint.
	They paint the bottom of the car first.
	Then they set the cars on nail blocks to paint the tops of the car.
	They use hair driers to dry the cars.

While the paint dries, we do some experiments that helped us better understand the science behind wooden race cars. We learn that:

	The force of gravity pulls the cars down the track -- you don't have to push them!
	Heavier cars usually go faster than lighter-weight cars.
	Cars go faster if their wheels spin easily -- if the wheels rub or stick, they slow the car down.
	With small, slow-moving cars like these, the shape of the car doesn't seem to matter too much. Boxy-looking cars can go faster than wedge-shaped cars, as long as they are heavier and have wheels that are easy to spin.

Before the Second Meeting:

1. The co-leaders spray on a shiny finish and drill holes where we can add weights to the car.

2. Members find stickers and accessories they can use to decorate their cars. We give some ideas below -- but feel free to come up with your own ideas!

We supply number stickers to all members. They look like this:	Members should look for other kinds of stickers they can put on their cars.


Members also look for accessories they can glue on their cars. We pulled these parts off broken toys:	If you don't have broken toys, then check your collection of Legos. You might even find a driver for your car.

Why not bring some extra stickers and parts to the meeting? Then you can trade with your friends.

At the Second Meeting:

1, We add weights to each car. We put small weights to holes drilled in the cars until they weigh below the 5 oz. maximum weight. Then we glue the weights in place.

2. We install the wheels and axles. We made sure they are straight.

3. We lubricate the wheels. We use dry graphite powder instead of oil.

4. We test the cars. We test them on an improvised track and then make adjustments to lubrication, alignment, etc.

5. We decorate the cars.

6. We weigh the cars again, to make sure they are below the 5 oz. maximum weight.

7. We test the cars again.

8. We collect the cars, to keep them safe until Grand Prix night.

Local Sources of PineCar Supplies

If you want to complete the project at home, you can easily spend $20 to $30 on a single car! Several local stores carry the PineCar brand. (Their online catalog is at < http://www.pinecar.com/ >.)

Oak Park's own Hobbytown USA has a wide selection of PineCar accessories and supplies.
1000 Lake St.
Oak Park, IL
708-445-8056.

Berwyn's Toy Trains & Models also has lots of PineCar materials on display.
7025 Ogden Avenue
Berwyn, IL 60402
708-484-4384

Hobby City usually has a fair selection of PineCar materials.
6910 West Cermak Rd.
Berwyn, IL 60402
708-795-0280

Here are Some Web sites about Pinewood Derby-type Cars:

PineCar
< http://www.pinecar.com/ >
Maker of the kits we provide to members. We got the P370 Basic Car Kit ($3.49, but we got a discount). If you look through the selection of sand papers, sealants, paints, accessories, decals, weights, and lubricants, you can see how easily one could spend $20 to $30 extra to finish a car!

The rest of these web sites were written for older children (and adults):

Pinewood Derby Car Building Tips
< http://www.maximumvelocity.com/ >
"Welcome to Maximum Velocity! Here we have compiled some information about building a pinewood derby car, specifically about buying the necessary materials, and building the car body. You will find a buyer's guide, tool tips, and information on how to recover from pinewood derby 'boo-boos.' "

The Ultimate Pinewood Derby Site
< http://hometown.aol.com/randywoo/pine/import.htm >
Lots of hints for how to make your car go really fast.

Pinewood Derby Mania
< http://www.geocities.com/~pack215/pinewood.html >
Lots of pinewood lore and advice.

Tips based on many experiments with car design
< http://pack146.nova.org/pinewood/tips.html >

Questions, comments -- or want to join? E-mail Eric at CampFire@SaltTheSandbox.org

This page was last updated on March 7, 2004.